Ellen Morgan
Designer Profile: Gwendolynne
13th October 2011 \
by AFF2011 \

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So, the AFF has officially kicked off, with the opening Monday, and the Finesse lingerie parade & party last night…and we’ve got nearly 2 more weeks to enjoy the fabulousness.

So, I thought I’d give you lovely little readers another designer profile to whet your appetite for some the fun to come. This time, let me introduce you to the gorgeous Gwendolynne Burkin, who will be featuring her designs at the final event – The Chambord Showcase. I had my very first Skype interview with Gwendolynne, who chatted to me from her busy studio.

Now based in Melbourne with her self-titled label, Gwendolynne was a former Adelaide girl. And rest assured, she’s a real Adelaide girl at heart – I know this because within the first 5 minutes of our chat, Gwendolynne had already brought up “the balls”. Heaps Good.

Gwendolynne, second from left, and some friends in the mid 80′s in front of the old Harris Scarf and the malls balls where they used to be. Love it. 

But I digress…German born Gwendolynne moved to little old church-filled Adelaide with her family when she was one. She spoke to me with great passion as she explained her love of fabrics and patterns from a very early age. Her first job aged 14 & a half, was at Ferrier Fashion Fabrics, Norwood Parade which is delightfully coincidental, as this (the Parade) is where Gwendolynne will showcase her designs at the AFF’s Designers Showcase, the final hoorah of the festival.

“I actually started sewing at six making a cute blue with white spot strawberry shortcake dress & remember making holly hobby patchwork pillow & a  fabric frogs & dresses for my dolls it was more making for other people in high school

The influence of her style on others began in high school when she started to make her own clothes, and some for her friends (I wish I had been her friend!)

“In the late 80s, I was almost 18 and I used to make things for my friends. I’ve forgotten a few things that I made – it was all very groovy!” she says… “And I used to make hats!” she adds excitedly.

Gwendolynne’s very first editorial feature in the Herald Sun, 1991, with her stunning hats.

Upon finishing school, Gwendolynne decided to pursue her passion in fashion design, choosing to move to Melbourne for its’ study opportunities.

“I moved to Melbourne when I was 17 to study fashion design at RMIT. I was looking to relocate to  either Sydney or Melbourne but Melbourne was closer & I always loved all the fashion that came from Melbourne – and I loved the way Melbourne people danced.” 

“I’d come back to Adelaide on the mid-semester breaks to work at the fabric shop…it was great because I used to score all the old patterns. It was then I learnt the knack of selling ideas to people…people would come to me, wanting to make something, and they would bounce ideas off of me, and I would help them design their clothes.”

It was during her university years, that Gwendolynne really started to develop her design style, and later, her business, which brings me back to her fabulous hats…

 “I still made hats when I was at uni, and everyone loved them…and I met a girl who sold rings to the FDC (Fashion Design Council) in about 1990, and it inspired me to take my hats there too. The FDC was a really good foot into the door of the industry as I was selling beside other emerging designers of the time such as: Morrissey, Bettina Liano and Alannah Hill – they were all at the FDC.”

“I later went on to be a designer/patternmaker/machinist for Garfunkle, a pattern maker for Bettina Liano & Sportsgirl. I also worked for DIVA in London, a company that developed product for high street fashion retailers in England (Miss Selfridges, Top Shop, Oasis)…I wouldn’t have had those opportunities had I not had all that experience working with many other people in Australia beforehand. It was very much about connections and being out there doing it. Things don’t come unless you’re doing it!”

In 1997, she began creating her own label, Gwendolynne. Firstly, she created wholesale ready-to-wear garments, and sold them to 45 stores nationally and internationally. However, she says when she opened her own boutique in July 2005 the demand for specific custom-design garments for special events was overwhelming and meant she had to dedicate more time to individual clients.

Gwendolynne also revealed that she felt wholesale was restricting her ability to really solidify her style, as she had to conform to the desires of a large amount of people. So in 2006, she focused on making custom-design pieces for clients.

“People came to me for a look,” says Gwendolynne.

…and this is precisely how Gwendolynne has remained successful. Her whimsical and beautiful gowns are now well sought-after for weddings, birthdays and special functions alike. It is her beading work, and vintage-style fabrics that she is particularly well known for, as you can see from a sneak-peak of her stunning pieces…

Sophisticated and elegant design with gorgeous detailing…

 Never judge a book by it’s cover they say – well this cover is absolutely stunning..pretty and dainty!

My absolute favourite – want this please and thankyou!!

All layered up! -love, love, love!

Just a few examples of Gwendolynne’s stunning beading… SEE MORE IMAGES AT HER WEBSITE HERE

“My label is very romantic and sensual. There is a certain softness to my design style. It is inspired by vintage elements from the 20s, 30s and 40s…and I love movies from the 60s so those too! I love that minimalistic looks of the 60s. Sometimes when you mix vintage clothes it can be very over the top, but I like to the clothes simpler; more wearable for women… there is certain softness.” 

“I see my client as a glamorous hippy!”

Her label has moved from strength to strength, and with recognition to prove it. She has won an award in ‘Fashions on the Field’ at the Dubai World Cup, her designs have also featured in the Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum and in various advertisements, the Australian ballet and are even in The Salvador Dali ongoing collection in Milan. Wowee!

Gwendolynne’s business now comprises of 8 busy little bee’s, working very hard to create gorgeous gowns for their clients, on a customized, piece by piece basis. Depending on the beading, she says the whole process of one dress can take around six months, and the team design and create approximately 100 dresses each year.

“Everything we create is individually crafted – we don’t have anything that is ready to wear…we’re almost like a big dress-up cupboard. People come in and play dress-ups and identify what they like about what we do here, and create their dream dress.”

“All the fabrics come from overseas – French laces, Spanish and Italian fabrics. The artisan beaders she works with in India also develop for designers from the likes of Oscar de la Renta, Valentinoand Collette Dinnigan. Each bead is hand stitched, one at a time!”

Geometric patterns and beading are some of Gwendolynne’s most loved inspirations for her designs, as you can see in the stunning images above. In our chat Gwendolynne also revealed her love for trawling through digital patterns, at the moment, looking for inspiration for new prints. But Gwendolynne’s top style tip, and one which she swears by with her own designs, is very simple;

“The best thing is to embrace looks that suit you. People should dress according to what suits them & makes them feels great!”

Excellent advice, from a gorgeous young woman, and very talented designer. Congratulations to Gwendolynne on all her well-deserved success. I know I am most certainly planning a trip to Melbourne to visit her at the studio, and see her gorgeous work in action. In the meantime, I can’t wait to see some of her designs on show at the AFF, at the Chambord SA Designers Fashion Showcase on October 22nd. Burkin will be there, so you might even spot her!

I sure hope so! See you all there. Don’t forget to work the plastic and purchase your tickets to the Finale Showcase here at Bass.

El. xx

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